By the way, loved the look of those pistachio croissants this morning. I have the beginnings of a Lebanese patisserie forming in my mind.

Thank you so much for your fantastic comment. It’s really great to get this kind of information. I’ve looked the chef up and her work sounds super interesting. I will be buying the book. The approach you mentioned is in line with my thinking in that we should use the flavour profiles we have available to create some new an exciting advancements in Levantine and Middle-Eastern food. I personally don’t like the term “Arabic” cooking because very few countries are truly Arab, but I understand the direction. I’ll buy the book and give you more feedback

I just discovered your blog, and am already a big fan. I also often wondered why (what could be broadly described as) middle eastern cooking, with all of its fascinating spices and preparations, never grew beyond a small niche in the world culinary scene. As you say, this is probably attributable to cultural factors (conservatism, insularity), and the absence of haute cuisine methods which would make these dishes suitable for a restaurant plating. Surely an accomplished and creative chef could unlock the potential of this cuisine.

Then recently I discovered Ana Sortun, a Boston-based chef with a restaurant called Oleana, who just came out with her first cookbook, called “Spice”. She is a culinary genius, and this book is a revelation. If you are interested in this subject, then you must get this book. Her basic idea is that Arabic cooking creates flavor by the subtle layering of spices (unlike French cuisine, which creates flavor with animal fat). Each chapter is based on a different trio of spices (first chapter – “cumin, coriander, and cardomam”, second chapter ” saffron, vanilla, and ginger”, etc. ). By deconstructing the cuisine this way, and untethering it from any single country, she has captured its essence and rendered it thoroughly modern.

Sorry for the length of this post, but I myself was very excited by her book, which I think is a first for its kind.

Thank you for the congrats I do like chickpeas but not when they’re whole (long story!)

I look forward to your hommous on sushi post, complete with a food styling shot that will convert me
.-= Gourmantic´s last blog ..Winning the May Grantourismo Travel Blogging Competition: A Personal Post =-.

Hi Corinne (now that I know your name LOL) – First, congratulations on winning the grantourismo travel blogging competition. I am so proud of and happy for you. Hommous on sushi? That sounds great! I’ll write a post about that Let’s not mistake fusion food for modern food. I am not asking for a happy marriage between Lebanese and Thai food. But it would be nice to see some restaurants showing innovation based on the flavour profiles of our cuisine, maybe along with some serious application of scientific advancements (sous vide/thermomix/paco jet), fun molecular gastronomy techniques, etc… I am 100% in agreement that traditional food must remain intact, but at the top end of the market, where people pay for amazing produce and expect some labour intensive dishes, it would be good to see some imagination.

So, you don’t like chickpeas? How did you ever survive in Lebanon?

I, for one, hope that culinary traditions remain and Lebanese cuisine (among others) doesn’t get swept into the global cuisine movement and loses its identity. I do not want to see the likes of hommos on sushi, just as I don’t want to see the homogenisation of cuisines that we end up travelling the world and eating the same thing.

Your moghrabieh looks delicious! I enjoy this dish very much but I end up picking out the chick peas and putting them aside. Will you be having a secret dinner soon?
.-= Gourmantic´s last blog ..Winning the May Grantourismo Travel Blogging Competition: A Personal Post =-.

Joumana – Great argument, and to an extent, I agree. But hear me out. You’ve recently been to Lebanon, and have undoubtedly seen the unbelievable show of wealth demonstrated in opulent restaurants and hospitality establishments. The attacks on Lebanon have not stopped enterprising individuals from creating successful businesses in the food sector (and otherwise), and the quality of the food served is amazing. Why should the attacks then stop people from innovating? Do you feel, like me, that there is a general, dominating attitude that Lebanese food should not change? I tried buying the book you mentioned but it is on pre-order for August. Thanks for the tip. I look forward to reading it. And thanks for your kind words on my moghrabieh (and your kind words on the toum entry on your blog, I am really touched).

Hello Anh – Greg Malouf is one of those exceptions, but keep a few things in mind:
1- Greg was not raised in Lebanon, and so he had the Australian influence along with the Lebanese
2- Greg’s training is European, which gives his technique advantage over Lebanese chefs trained in Lebanon
3- Greg’s insight into Lebanese food and culture, and I say this with the greatest amount of respect, is somewhat flawed and under informed, seeing that he didn’t grow up in Lebanon. He refers to saj bread as sorj bread and to laban immo as laban immor, and seems to finish his conversations with inshalla, in the most inappropriate places. I don’t hold this against him in any way, as he is not Lebanese. He is Australian of Lebanese ancestry. This as a fact gives him much more freedom than most chefs to innovate. When he visits the Middle East, I bet you that he goes wide eyed and is amazed by things that people like me grew up with on a day to day basis. It gives his food a sense of excitement and an exotic element. To me, I’d like to see that excitement coming from Lebanese chefs who grew up in Lebanon

MariannaF – I’m glad you arrived to my blog. Please have a seat and I’ll get you some coffee I’m also glad you agree. Ooooh, hummous is such a big debate in this world isn’t it? In Sydney, we hardly have the Moroccan influence you have in Paris, as Lebanese food dominates the Middle Eastern food scene. So do Moroccan restaurants serve hummous in Paris?

I think i understand the sentiment. But look at what Greg Malouf has done? His books and restaurants introduced a new world of Middle Eastern cuisines to me, and I love it!

Lisa – you’re welcome! I’m so glad you enjoyed the dish. I hope Lebanese food is less of a mystery for you now

Pamela – I’m not disagreeing, but merely stating that Koreans were hired because they looked Asian enough, which shows that there is little understanding when it comes to something as revered as sushi making… The staff actually didnt know much about sushi but got trained in it. Also, you probably know that I have HUGE respect for traditional Lebanese food, and that is the core reason why I blog about Lebanese food. That said, I feel chefs could be a bit more adventurous. Amanda would tell you how amazing the food created by Lebanese chef Greg Maalouf is. It is modern without being gimmicky and totally delicious, and somehow manages to keep the spirit of the cuisine.

Amanda – Are you Lebanese (secretly hoping for another Australian Lebanese food blogger)? How awesome is Greg Maalouf. I had dinner at Momo last year. I flew to Melbourne especially to try his food, and I also got to meet him. With regards to the Korean sushi chefs, please read my response to Pamela. But as a summary, I feel Lebanese chefs can do with more education when it comes to the global food scene. I think anyone would agree with that, right?

Hi Silvia. Thanks for thinking about me at all hehehe, and well put. The new doesn’t need to replace the old, but it can be a nice option every once in a while. Lebanese food is awesome, and no one can disagree, but sometimes the unexpected can create a very memorable experience.

People are hesitant about innovative culinary twists because they fear it will substitute tradition. Why? If the old is good, and I tend to be a food traditionalist, it will survive. Innovations are options and alternatives, not substitutions.

C’est tout.