The Devil’s Gazpacho – Eating Kiwano, the African Horned Cucumber

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kiwano gazpacho – African horned cucumber with yoghurt

Take a good look at this guy. Seriously. How scary does that look? It’s terrifying, isn’t it? Well, at least for a cucumber it is. This is a kiwano, an African horned cucumber or melon. I’m not sure why the cucumber/melon ambiguity exists, but to me, this monster tasted like a cucumber more than a melon. I don’t know much about this fruit, and I am currently too exhausted and not overly keen to trawl the web to find out too much information, mainly because the culinary possibilities of the kiwano seem somewhat limited. It’s basically a bunch of liquidy seeds that taste like a citrusy cucumber.

sliced kiwano

I bought two kiwanos from the Bellingen market this weekend. For twenty cents each, this is probably the cheapest exotic fruit I’ve ever bought. Let me describe it to you.  The kiwano is about the size of the palm of my hand, which is a biggish hand. The thorny bits are vicious, not decorative. It seems the kiwano was evolving into a land mammal at some stage and needed hedgehog-like protection, and during it’s evolution, it changed its mind and remained a fruit, but kept the thorns for style and comfort. Slicing into a kiwano is easy. The “wall” which protects the seeds is on the thick side, and as far as I know, is not delectablely edible. The seeds are akin to large cucumber seeds, encased by a liquidy membrane. The flavour is similar to that of a cucumber, only with a strong citrus profile. With the heat of Sydney today, a cooling gazpacho-like soup seemed in order. Now, I am aware that gazpacho doesn’t have yoghurt, and that it should contain vinegar, and the other 1000 rules that go with it, but hey, it just sounds better than saying chilled cucumber soup, so please allow me this one.  I threw this gazpacho together in a few minutes and it was great. The balance of flavours is completely within your control, so add more or less of any of the ingredients below. No lemon juice is needed because the kiwano is acidic enough. Have you ever seen a kiwano, and what do you think of it?

kiwano at the Bellingen markets

The Devil’s Gazpacho – Kiwano Recipe


  • 1 Kiwano, seeds and liquid only
  • 250 ml plain yoghurt
  • 1 clove garlic, sliced
  • 1/4 spanish onion, sliced
  • 1/2 bird’s eye chili
  • 3 tbsp olive oil
  • good pinch of salt
  • small handful of mint


  • put aside 3 tbsp kiwano seeds for garnish
  • put all other ingredients  in blender and blend until smooth
  • strain, store in the fridge until very cold.
  • put the gazpacho in a freezer for 20 minutes before serving
  • serve in small shot glasses with a bit of olive oil and the reserved kiwano seeds as garnish

That Old Chestnut – Staying in Tune with the Forager Within

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I’m currently up north, enjoying the early signs of Autumn. The air is crisp and the sun still floods the streets with light. The two make a combination fit for a hot/cold molecular gastronomy menu. Driving along, I took a wrong turn on one of the suburban streets and ended up being faced with a gigantic chestnut tree. It’s a great feeling when you are inadvertantly lead to being somewhere at the right place and at the right time. Sort of like Mr Gardener in Being There. The chestnut tree had dropped her fruit (or is it nuts?) by the thousands. I managed to sneakily forage a hundred or so chestnuts. I can’t wait to get home to eat them but for now, they will stay in the fridge waiting for Sunday.

Kibbet La’teen – Vegetarian Pumpkin Kibbe

By | labneh, lebanese food, lebanon food, Recipes, Uncategorized | 19 Comments

Queensland Blue Pumpkins

I have noticed that lately my blog has focused on Lebanese food. I don’t know why especially. The fact that I am Lebanese might have something to do with it, but I live in bicultural home were we live on a multicultural diet, as is befitting for a Sydney lifestyle. In my little corner of the world I can eat anything from ayam goreng to zabaglione, and I do. But lately, I often think of home. I miss my little village, our olive trees anxious for the summer time, and my parents who are waiting for that weekly phone call from their three boys who are scattered around the world. I find some solace in that phone call, and I spend hours talking to my mom, discussing day-to-day life, sharing worries and triumphs and swapping recipes. Easter is near, and normally I would have felt it approaching. You see, though Sydney has given me so much, it has also made me a stranger to traditions I used to identify with. That’s what nine years does to a migrant. In the period of Lent leading up to Easter Sunday, I would have been more aware of the approach of Easter, possibly because I usually would have had a lot of kibbet la’teen.

Kibbet La’teen – Pumpkin Kibbeh with Labneh

The days of Lent traditionally meant abstinence from meat. This has now changed, but in keeping with tradition, I wanted to make kibbet la’teen, or pumpkin kibbeh. Kibbeh is the national dish of Lebanon and we have so many variations on the theme. The most famous is the torpedo shaped balls filled with minced meat and pine nuts. Any decent or even terrible Lebanese restaurant would have kibbeh on the menu. But pumpkin kibbeh is the only kibbeh to have during Lent. I love the regional name kibbet heeleh. This names translates to “trick kibbeh”, the trick is, of course, the sneaky substitution of meat with pumpkin. The filling varies, and you can use anything. You would normally fill the little kibbeh balls with silver beet or spinach, fennel, raisins, chickpeas and onions. Another filling would be labneh (a creamy spread made by straining yoghurt) with onions and dried mint. I decided to go with the labneh filling and I also made a filling with fetta and walnuts, which turned out great. I got this recipe from yet another weekly phone call to the folks back home. Mom emphasised that I MUST squeeze the pumpkin after boiling. So please, do as Mom says.

Kibbet La’teen – Pumpkin Kibbeh Recipe

A visual guide to making kibbeh


For the kibbeh dough

  • Pumpkin – 2 kilos
  • Burghul – 400 grams (burghul is also known as bulghur wheat)
  • 1 finely diced onion
  • 2 tsp salt
  • 1 tsp cinnamon
  • 1 tsp pepper
  • 1 loaf of Lebanese bread

Labneh Filling (adjust quantities to suit)

  • Labneh – 2 cups
  • ½ cup finely diced onion
  • Salt, to taste
  • Dried or fresh mint (optional)

Fetta Filling (adjust quantities to suit)

  • 2 cups Fetta
  • Handful of chopped walnuts
  • ½ cup finely diced onion


  • Cut the pumpkin into equally sized pieces
  • Boil enough water to cover the pumpkin and add to the boiling water
  • Remove after around 15 minutes. You want the pumpkin to be cooked, but still firm. Set aside to cool
  • Put small amounts of the pumpkin in an old, but clean pillowcase. Squeeze to drain as much water as possible. Preserve the liquid that comes out
  • Repeat the above step with the remaining pumpkin. You should be left with around 650 grams of dry pumpkin flesh
  • Wet the Lebanese bread in the strained pumpkin water and then squeeze the excess liquid. Afterwards, shred the bread
  • Put the pumpkin flesh, shredded bread and the diced onion in a food processor, and whizz away
  • When the flesh and the onions are well processed, put in a big mixing bowl and add the burghul, salt and spices and knead well

Putting it together

  • Put a bowl of water nearby and wet your hands when necessary
  • Grab a small handful of kibbeh dough
  • Shape into a ball and hold in your left hand
  • Use the index finger on your right hand to make a hole in the ball
  • Gradually flatten the dough making it longer around your index
  • Make sure you don’t create any holes
  • It doesn’t have to be perfect, as long as it holds the filling. It gets better the more you do it. When the kibbeh is around the length of your index, place the filling of choice inside and close it up by either rounding the edges or flattening them.
  • Use the different edges to distinguish different fillings
  • Now to cook them, you can either bake, deep-fry or boil them. Deep-frying is the tastiest but least healthy, which is of course what I did. You want the colour to deepen to a nice dark brown. If boiling, do so for around 5 minutes. The colour will not go brown, but they will be cooked.
  • Eat hot or cold. It doesn’t matter, as long as you eat them. Enjoy, and if I don’t see you, Happy Easter.

Shankleesh – The Middle East’s Only Mold Ripened Cheese

By | lebanese breakfast, lebanese food, lebanon food, Recipes, Uncategorized | 19 Comments

If you have been to Lebanon or the Middle East, you may have tasted the different cheeses on offer. From stretchy, salty akkawi to mild, creamy baladiyeh to riccotta-like qareesheh, cheese is a central and well loved part of our diet. However, you may be lead to believe that our repertoire does not extend past fresh, white cheese. That’s where you’re wrong, sucker!

Enter shankleesh. You have possibly seen the vacuum-wrapped herb-covered ball-shaped curiosities at Middle-Eastern shops and you may have thought, what the? You may have walked by too scared to try something that strange. Allow me to demystify. Shankleesh is the only mold ripened cheese native to the Middle East. It is thought to have originated from Kurdistan, but is now mainly found in Lebanon, Syria and Turkey. Shankleesh is a compound word derived from the Kurdish ‘shan’, denoting a small terracotta pot; and ‘qareesh’, a Bedouin term for fermented milk.

It is said that you can find the best shankleesh in Rahbeh, Akkar (Lebanon’s most water-rich village- personal joke), but it’s mostly excellent anywhere where they use good milk. To make shankleesh, low fat yoghurt is strained until dry, then salted and strained again overnight. Afterwards the dry yoghurt is shaped into balls that are dried in the sun for a couple of days. Left to mature in air tight containers for a month, the shankleesh allows for the growth of Debaryomyces hanseni and Penicillium mold. This mold is rinsed and then the balls are covered with herbs and spices, mainly thyme and Aleppo pepper. Along with salt, these help inhibit bacterial growth. The result is a pungent, dry, crumbly cheese, full-flavoured and redolent with herbs and spices.

A great website with information on shankleesh is Slow Food Beirut. For some reason their shankleesh page is down, so I’ve found a link to Google’s cache. Have a read for much more in-depth information.

Shankleesh Recipe

Shankleesh is eaten with diced vegetables and loads of olive oil to balance the pungency and flavour onslaught. Traditionally one adds diced tomatoes, green capsicum and finely diced onions. I’ve added avocado to mine to give it a bit of creaminess. Simply crumble the shankleesh into a bowl, top with diced veggies of choice, add loads of olive oil and enjoy with Lebanese bread, or on top of toasted sourdough.

Finger Limes – Recipes with the Australian Native

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Finger Limes

Australian Native Finger Limes

Isn’t it wonderful when you discover something new? A new restaurant, an exciting recipe, a passion for pottery making, a hidden ability for fatherhood (I hope)? Three years ago, I discovered a whole new ingredient: a finger lime. Wandering in the Leichhardt organic markets, researching a 100 mile food store that never eventuated, I saw the interesting fruit at one of the farmers’ stalls. It was grown locally by the farmer and they had a small amount for sale. I bought a few to test them out and I fell in love with them. I was at the markets yesterday when I decided to write something about finger limes. I bought 3 for $2.00.

Smoked Salmon and Goat Cheese on Rye with Finger Limes

Smoked Salmon and Goat Cheese on Rye with Finger Limes

I have to say, my botanical knowledge with the finger lime does not extend past Wikipedia, but since when has it been necessary to be an expert on a subject to enjoy it? Finger limes (citrus australasica) are Australian natives that grow along the coastal border of New South Wales and Queensland. The ones I have are 7 cm long, green hued, slightly curved and are filled with wonderful little caviar shaped balls (called vesicles) that burst in your mouth with a tropical lime flavour. Their use is limited to your imagination, but they are so texturally interesting that they should be used uncooked (some make marmalade). Think oysters with finger limes, or micro salads with finger limes… The picture above shows my suggestion, smoked salmon and goat cheese on rye, topped with finger limes. Might sound like strange combination of cheese and citrus, but it works nicely. I’ve read that the dried peel can be turned into a spice, but have never tried. You can find finger limes at the Leichhardt Organic Markets Orange Grove Public School, Cnr Perry Street and Balmain Road.

German Cakes in Sydney

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I don’t usually do this, but this is way too exciting not to share. My sister in law Berenike (Nike), a talented and experienced home baker has finally decided to start her German bakery business. She will be making some amazing traditional cakes from recipes that she used to make in Germany before she decided to come to Sydney. To order some cakes, you can check out Nike’s website here. Her Black Forest Gateau, or Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte is AMAZING.